Vertical Labret Piercing

Vertical Labret Piercing: the lip-hugging statement that keeps your smile centre-stage

A single, elegantly curved barbell peeping from the heart of the lower lip has become a staple on UK high streets and in glossy fashion spreads alike. Technically known as the vertical labret, this piercing travels vertically through the fleshy body of the lip, with one jewel sitting on the vermilion border and the other resting just below. Unlike the classic labret, it never enters the oral cavity, which means no friction against your gums or teeth and— with the right care— a shorter, sweeter healing journey. Whether you are planning your very first facial piercing or adding to a well-curated set, taking time to understand the process, the aftercare and the potential pitfalls will set you up for smooth sailing and a beautiful result.

Defining the vertical labret

A vertical labret involves two punctures made in a single motion: entry is at the centre of the lower lip and exit is directly beneath, just above the chin crease. A curved barbell of implant-grade titanium or solid gold is inserted so that both ends remain visible; nothing sits inside the mouth. This orientation distinguishes it from an “Ashley” or inverted vertical (one exit, one internal), and greatly reduces enamel wear and gum recession because the jewellery never contacts hard tissue.

What happens during the appointment?

Your visit begins with routine ID and a short medical form covering allergies, medications and any history of keloid scarring. The piercer washes up, dons fresh nitrile gloves and asks you to rinse for thirty seconds with an alcohol-free antiseptic mouth-wash— even though the jewellery will stay external, the needle still breaks the moist mucosa briefly.

The lip is blotted dry and marked with two tiny dots. With your approval in the mirror, a sterile, single-use 14-gauge needle is pushed from top to bottom in one decisive motion. The pre-autoclaved curved bar follows immediately so the tract cannot contract. A longer bar is fitted at first to accommodate post-procedure swelling; downsizing to a snugger stem takes place in four to six weeks. From paperwork to final wipe, the chair time is rarely more than ten minutes, yet a quality studio will book a full quarter-hour so you can discuss aftercare in comfort.

Pain: honest but brief

Most clients place the vertical labret midway on the pain spectrum. Expect a sharp pinch— perhaps a five out of ten— followed by a warm throb that paracetamol or ibuprofen easily takes the edge off if you are medically cleared to use them. Because the jewellery does not traverse muscular tissue sideways as a snake eyes piercing does, speech rarely lisping beyond a day or two, and swelling usually peaks at the forty-eight-hour mark before subsiding.

Healing: patience in weeks, not months

Soft lip tissue boasts generous blood supply, so surface sealing feels quick— six to eight weeks is the typical window quoted by piercers and dermatology writers alike. Complete internal remodelling, however, carries on quietly for several more weeks as collagen reorganises and the fistula matures; treat the piercing gently for three months before considering ring swaps or bold gem upgrades. The process can stretch to four or five months if you smoke, neglect saline cleanses or knock the bar repeatedly while eating. Reddit’s piercing community underscores this point, with many UK wearers reporting a good six months before forgetting the jewellery is there at all.

Aftercare the NHS and UKAPP actually recommend

Keep it simple and consistent. Twice a day, rinse the area with a warm saline solution— a quarter teaspoon of fine sea salt in a mug of freshly boiled, cooled water— or a pharmacy saline spray. Gently soak away any clear lymph crusts, rinse with plain water and pat dry with kitchen roll. Do not twist or spin the bar; modern evidence shows movement drags bacteria deeper and restarts inflammation. After meals and cigarettes, swill an alcohol-free mouthwash for thirty seconds to flush sugars and micro-organisms.

Stick to soft foods for the first forty-eight hours, avoid very hot curries or citrus juices that can sting raw tissue, and resist kissing until tenderness fades. UKAPP guidance stresses the importance of that downsizing visit: an over-long stem left in place once swelling has gone invites bites and embedding.

Counting the cost

Across most of Britain, a vertical labret with basic implant-grade titanium jewellery costs between £35 and £45 in reputable regional studios— Good Fortune in King’s Cross lists £40, while Mystic Lounge in Kent charges £35. Central London boutiques and gold-only studios nudge the figure towards £55— Mystique Piercing in Hackney, for example, starts at that price. Add £5–£7 for a sterile saline spray and budget another £15 to £25 for a shorter bar at the downsizing appointment if it is not included upfront.

Risks and how to keep them low

Because the jewellery never contacts teeth, the vertical labret sidesteps enamel chipping and gum recession that plague many horizontal lip piercings. Nevertheless, infection remains a possibility whenever skin is breached. An infected lip becomes hot, red and swollen, sometimes oozing yellow pus; NHS guidance is clear that you should seek prompt medical attention rather than remove the bar yourself, which can trap bacteria inside. Hypertrophic bumps— raised, pink mounds of collagen— crop up if the bar is knocked, slept upon or left too long. Warm saline compresses and timely downsizing usually settle them.

Allergy is rare with implant-grade titanium or solid gold, but nickel-heavy fashion jewellery bought online can trigger dermatitis, so save the costume gems for fully healed piercings and double-check EU compliance if in doubt.

Who makes an ideal candidate?

Healthy adults with solid oral-hygiene habits, no chronic lip-chewing or gnawing, and a work environment that tolerates facial jewellery typically heal without drama. If you take blood thinners such as warfarin, a vertical labret is not forbidden but you must discuss dose adjustments with your GP; the NHS cautions that bleeding risks rise when anticoagulants meet piercing needles. Those with a strong family history of keloids should think twice, as lip tissue, while vascular, can still form exuberant scars.

Studio standards: what to expect

Every piercing studio in England and Wales must be registered with its local Environmental Health department under the Local Government (Miscellaneous Provisions) Act 1982, with near-identical schemes in Scotland and Northern Ireland. Look for the certificate on display, observe sealed autoclave pouches opened in front of you, and note the use of single-use hollow needles and nitrile gloves. A UKAPP membership plaque is a further green flag, signalling commitment to implant-grade jewellery and continuous training.

FAQs and persistent myths

Does it leave a huge scar if removed? The fistula begins shrinking within hours once the bar comes out; after a few weeks, most people are left with a faint pin-prick dot.

Can I change to a sparkly curved bar after three weeks? The exterior may look calm, but internal collagen is still fragile. Wait until at least eight weeks, or better yet after the downsizing visit, to avoid bumps.

Will it affect speech? A slight lisp can linger for a day or two while swelling peaks, but because the bar sits vertically and clears muscle movement, long-term speech changes are unusual.

Is plastic jewellery safer during healing? Acrylic and PTFE are porous; they harbour bacteria and flex unpredictably. Stick to implant-grade titanium until fully healed.

Can I get pierced if I smoke? Smoking constricts tiny blood vessels and slows healing, but it is not an automatic veto. Double your saline rinses and consider nicotine gum for the first fortnight.

Final thoughts

The vertical labret offers a clean, modern line that flatters every lip shape while sparing your teeth the constant nudge of traditional labret posts. Choose a licensed UK studio, insist on implant-grade jewellery, treat the fresh tract to calm saline twice daily and return for that all-important downsizing. Give the tissue eight unhurried weeks to knit quietly beneath the surface and you will soon forget the bar is there— until a stranger asks where you got that perfectly placed touch of metal that lights up your smile.